Dermocosmetics in Management of Adolescents with Acne
https://doi.org/10.15690/vsp.v24i6.2983
Abstract
Acne vulgaris (AV) is one of the most common inflammatory skin disease in adolescents, characterised by negative impact on patients’ quality of life and psycho-emotional state. Acne affects approximately 85% of children and adolescents according to some data. Fortunately, now there are many safe and effective treatments for acne. Successful AV management often involves combination of medications that act on various pathological mechanisms. However, the paradigm of acne treatment is progressively focusing not only on pharmacotherapy, but also on care strategies based on proven products implementation. Traditionally, the international expert consensus on the use of dermocosmetics provides classification of active ingredients according to their mechanism of action and evidence level in relation to acne. Key active ingredients with proven efficacy include zinc, niacinamide, and many other components that have sebo-regulating, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic effects, as well as normalise skin microbiome. It is crucial to consider individual skin phylotypes reflecting differences in sebum production, sensitivity, and barrier function when choosing modern dermocosmetics. Thus, dermocosmetics is integral part of comprehensive management of adolescents with acne, providing both therapeutic effect, and quality of life improvement.
About the Author
Eduard T. AmbarchyanRussian Federation
Moscow
Disclosure of interest:
Eduard T. Ambarchyan — receiving research grants from pharmaceutical companies Eli Lilly, Novartis, AbbVie, Pfizer, Amryt Pharma plc, scientific consultant of Pierre Fabre, L’Oreal, Janssen, Dr. Reddy’s Laboratories Ltd.
References
1. Jones ME, Pourali SP, Kohn AH, et al. Differences in acne therapy prescribing patterns between dermatologists and pediatricians: a population-based study. Pediatr Dermatol. 2021;38(5):1150–1156. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.14778
2. Guguluș DL, Vâță D, Popescu IA, et al. The epidemiology of acne in the current era: trends and clinical implications. Cosmetics. 2025;12(3):106. doi: https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12030106
3. Toy J, Wan V, Lee DG, et al. Perspectives and knowledge of acne vulgaris among young adolescents. Pediatr Dermatol. 2023;40(2):308–311. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/pde.15230
4. Ražnatović Đurović M, Janković J, Đurović M, et al. Adolescents’ beliefs and perceptions of acne vulgaris: a cross-sectional study in Montenegrin schoolchildren. PLoS One. 2021;16(6):e0253421. doi: https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0253421
5. Poli F, Auffret N, Beylot C, et al. Acne as seen by adolescents: results of questionnaire study in 852 French individuals. Acta Derm Venereol. 2011;91(5):531–536. doi: https://doi.org/10.2340/00015555-1125
6. Li K, Hsu JTS, Li MK. Evaluation of ChatGPT’s acne advice. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2024;49(7):746–749. doi: https://doi.org/10.1093/ced/llad434
7. Jaiswal S, Jawade S, Madke B, Gupta S. Recent trends in the management of acne vulgaris: a review focusing on clinical studies in the last decade. Cureus. 2024;16(3):e56596. doi: https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.56596
8. Dréno B, Araviiskaia E, Kerob D, et al. Nonprescription acne vulgaris treatments: Their role in our treatment armamentariumAn international panel discussion. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020;19(9):2201–2211. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13497
9. Dréno B. What is new in acne pathophysiology. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2017;31(Suppl 5):8–12. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.17194
10. Niedźwiedzka A, Micallef MP, Biazzo M, Podrini C. The role of the skin microbiome in acne: challenges and future therapeutic opportunities. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25(21):11422. doi: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms252111422
11. Hamann T, Brüggemann H, Feidenhansl C, et al. Distinct Intraspecies Variation of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis in Acne Vulgaris and Healthy Skin. Microorganisms. 2025;13(2):299. doi: https://doi.org/10.3390/microorganisms13020299
12. Cavallo I, Sivori F, Truglio M, et al. Skin dysbiosis and Cutibacterium acnes biofilm in inflammatory acne lesions of adolescents. Sci Rep. 2022;12(1):21104. doi: https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-022-25436-3
13. Araviyskaya ER, Murashkin NN, Ivanov RA. Acne vulgaris in adolescents: scientific evidence for optimizing treatment regimens via dermatocosmetics. Voprosy sovremennoi pediatrii — Current Pediatrics. 2024;23(5):285–294. (In Russ). doi: https://doi.org/10.15690/vsp.v23i5.2801
14. Kim HJ, Kim YH. Skin microbiome alterations in acne. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25(10):5302. doi: https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms25105302
15. Althwanay A, AlEdani EM, Kaur H, et al. Efficacy of topical treatments in mild-to-moderate acne: a systematic review. Cureus. 2024;16(4):e57909. doi: https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.57909
16. Kosmadaki M, Katsambas A. Topical treatments for acne. Clin Dermatol. 2017;35(2):173–178. doi: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2016.10.010
17. Nosachyova OA, Torshkhoeva RM, Namazova-Baranova LS. Modern Methods of Acne Treatment in Children. Pediatricheskaya farmakologiya — Pediatric pharmacology. 2013;10(5):23–30. doi: https://doi.org/10.15690/pf.v10i5.819
18. Araviiskaia E, Layton AM, Estebaranz JLL, et al. The synergy between pharmacological regimens and dermocosmetics and its impact on adherence in acne treatment. Dermatol Res Pract. 2022;2022:3644720. doi: https://doi.org/10.1155/2022/3644720
19. Iraji F, Sadeghinia A, Shahmoradi Z, et al. Efficacy of topical azelaic acid gel in the treatment of mild–moderate acne vulgaris. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2007;73(2):94–96. doi: https://doi.org/10.4103/0378-6323.31892
20. Mohsin N, Hernandez LE, Martin MR, et al. Acne treatment review and future perspectives. Dermatol Ther. 2022;35(9):e15719. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.15719
21. Conforti C, Giuffrida R, Fadda S, et al. Topical dermocosmetics and acne vulgaris. Dermatol Ther. 2021;34(1):e14436. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/dth.14436
22. Kurokawa I, Kobayashi M, Nomura Y, et al. The role and benefits of dermocosmetics in acne management in Japan. Dermatol Ther (Heidelberg). 2023;13(7):1423–1433. doi: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-023-00943-x
23. Thiboutot D, Layton AM, Traore I, et al. International expert consensus recommendations for the use of dermocosmetics in acne. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2025;39(5):952–966. doi: https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.20145
24. Flament F, Imko-Walczuk B, Aslham Doarika A, et al. A dermocosmetic regimen is effective and safe for mild to moderate acne in subjects of all skin phototypes. JEADV Clin Pract. 2024;3(4):1140–1147. doi: https://doi.org/10.1002/jvc2.436
25. Towersey L, Correia P, Fajgenbaum Feiges M, et al. Assessment of the benefit of a deep cleansing gel containing salicylic acid 2%, zinc gluconate 0.2% and lipohydroxy acids 0.05% in patients with mild to moderate truncal acne: results from an exploratory study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2023;16:119–123. doi: https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S394123
Review
For citations:
Ambarchyan E.T. Dermocosmetics in Management of Adolescents with Acne. Current Pediatrics. 2025;24(6):413-417. (In Russ.) https://doi.org/10.15690/vsp.v24i6.2983
JATS XML
































